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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Is the solenoid clicking? That usually means low battery voltage.
Sounds like it: New video by Brian Machado (sorry the vid is upside, but all i show is no OBD errors and the clicking)

Battery is reading 12.4v no load... looks like I should go charge it and try again. Could this mean good news since it wants to fire coils but doesnt have enough voltage now?
 

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You can keep your battery on a charger while doing your testing. Keep an eye on battery voltage, as 12.4 volts is "discharged " voltage for many batteries. Also have pity on your starter. Just look how tiny that thing is! Even if the battery can keep up, the starter motor is designed for 5 - 15 second bursts with time in between. I would not crank longer than 20 seconds at a shot and wait a couple of minutes between tries. Keep an eye on how hot is gets. Good Luck. You are going to be thrilled when you get it running & you will know that electrical system inside out.
 

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2019 Ninja 400 ABS, Pearl Storm Gray
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If the starter motor/solenoid clicks that almost always means the battery voltage is low or a high-current connection is not tight (so the increased current results in too large a voltage drop for the solenoid to engage or motor to turn).

If OBD2 is happy, and R has battery voltage, then the things to check to me seem like:
  • side stand sensor not "up"
  • vehicle down sensor not "up"
  • ignition security resistor missing
Any of those will cause the ECU to not spark.

PS and +1 on not running the starting motor continuously -- it is only designed for intermittent duty -- from the owner's manual:

19143
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
If the starter motor/solenoid clicks that almost always means the battery voltage is low or a high-current connection is not tight (so the increased current results in too large a voltage drop for the solenoid to engage or motor to turn).

If OBD2 is happy, and R has battery voltage, then the things to check to me seem like:
  • side stand sensor not "up"
  • vehicle down sensor not "up"
  • ignition security resistor missing
Any of those will cause the ECU to not spark.

PS and +1 on not running the starting motor continuously -- it is only designed for intermittent duty -- from the owner's manual:

View attachment 19143
Ah thanks for info on the starter, wasnt aware how undersized it is.

I charged the battery and starter is back and running. OBD is happy with 0 Error codes (I still dont get how, im missing like half the sensors but whatever).

Side stand sensor is grounded, vehicle down sensor is in correct orientation. I put a 220ohm resistor between the purple ignition wire (that goes to the ECU) and the +ve that comes in, in the same way this diagram shows:
19158


Still got no spark though. May need to get an actual ignition module with the proper resistor...
 

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Do you have an OEM ignition switch? If so, the resistor should already be there and you would not want another (and 220 is the wrong value -- in general it is best to keep the security details to PM?). If you don't have the oem switch, I think I have one that has been gutted I can send you -- it might not look pretty but it works -- you can PM me your address.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Do you have an OEM ignition switch? If so, the resistor should already be there and you would not want another (and 220 is the wrong value -- in general it is best to keep the security details to PM?). If you don't have the oem switch, I think I have one that has been gutted I can send you -- it might not look pretty but it works -- you can PM me your address.
I dont have an ignition switch, PMed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
BIG DAY TODAY!! The engine started with gas!

Here is the video: New video by Brian Machado

What I did today to make this happen:
  • Used correct security resistor and startup procedure (thanks to Rich T)
  • Got a spark on the spark plug I had sitting out (shown in previous videos)
  • Assembled the spark plugs and coils back in the engine
  • Poured a few mL of gas into the intake
  • turned the "ignition" (my version is pushing a wire up against another wire)
  • EXPLOSIONS

Next task: Fuel pressure and correct idling

Thank you everyone for all the help, especially Rich T, this would not have been possible without all your help and guidance.

Going to take the next couple days to document everything I've learned, clean up the wiring and general situation of the engine, order the right fuel parts and get ready for the next set of testing.
 

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Very Impressive!

And I owe you an apology for my smart aleck post earlier. Looks like this will not be just another typical moto engined kart project!

(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Quick update: I got it to idle much longer, closed the throttle valve all the way and let the throttle air valve idle much slower

Video: New video by Brian Machado

I also wanted to try continuous running so I hooked up a squeeze bottle to the fuel line and just squeezed really hard. Picture of squeeze bottle setup:
(gas tank is just to hold up the bottle, when I was testing I would hold it myself and squeeze very hard)

19188


I saw that fuel pressure is roughly 40-50psi so I thought if I could get like 20-30 it would atleast spit but I was getting absolulety nothing. I took off the two screws that hold the fuel injector in and took it out:
19187


When I pressed the starter it was spitting fuel on both lines so it definitely was not clogged or not functioning, and there was voltage on R/W and signals being sent to B. So kinda confused why I can't start the engine with fuel. Is my assumption about fuel pressure bad, I guestimate that I probably was squeezing at realistically 10-20psi but it was enough to get some fuel to spit out when I had the fuel injector dissambled. I probably just require the correct pressure, but does anyone know exactly why?
 

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Maybe it is time to grab a fuel pump. You will need one at some point. Is it maybe not enough pressure to overcome the pressure in the injection port????
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Hey so if someone could help me out real quick about fuel pumps:

I want to buy this: LINK

I know this is unregulated so I need a regulator. However I can't find any great documentation on regulators. I've kinda figured out theres a few types and I THINK the OEM one in the pump just circulates it back into the take and its just some small little spring valve thats tuned to 43psi. Something like this:

19192


But im not 100% sure. I've also found some other ones that have a gauge and 3 holes (1 for in, 1 for out, 1 for additional air pressure to match intake air pressure) I think this is for boosted cars though from what I've seen to match boost pressure. Anyone know what I need? I'd hope to get some parts in the next couple days and see this thing run continous!
 
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