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Discussion Starter #1
I think this brake ain’t looking right after installed the Arashi foot pegs..
15354
3854EE24-2576-4256-9D66-5405E13C5EE6.jpeg
 

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You didn't notice the extra drag on the wheel when you were riding it??

Yeah that's toasted though. New brake lever put pressure on the master cylinder, applying brake pressure, then overheated while riding causing more friction.
 

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Can't tell exactly wut I'm look'in at; the brake's dragging, wore all the pad material away?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You didn't notice the extra drag on the wheel when you were riding it??

Yeah that's toasted though. New brake lever put pressure on the master cylinder, applying brake pressure, then overheated while riding causing more friction.
didn’t noticed the dragging but somehow I stopped n looked at it saw smoking...I think I installed right tho
 

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Hindsight is a wonderful thing I know but if your doing that sort of work then do it on a rear stand so you can spin the rear wheel easily and check that all is well before riding away. Noise is more of an indicator and will often will tell you more than a visual inspection.
 

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didn’t noticed the dragging but somehow I stopped n looked at it saw smoking...I think I installed right tho
Did you check the wheel spin while on the rear stand after you installed them? I have seen his recently on an R3. Someone installed a set of Vortex rear sets on the bike and didn't adjust the push rod right and same thing happened. Rear caliper was smoking and brake fluid was boiling. Could barely move the rear wheel at that point.
 

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Wow. That's super trashed. Surely the sound of the metal on metal would be horrendous? The drag must have been significant surely?
You'll want to remove the red height adjuster disk so the brake pedal can come up to a reasonable angle. I think I mentioned that problem on my install post.
Also the brake lever return spring is much better to route through the center of the master cylinder bracket or on the right hand side of the bracket, so its captured.
 

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You've got no pads left, just the spectacularly trashed back plate. The brake piston doesn't look good either, nearly popped out. A caliper boot is also torn. From that picture, I'm definitely thinking a complete rebuild.

The brake pedal red height adjuster must be holding pressure on the brake lever. Otherwise it'd return to a resting state and there'd have been no drag.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You've got no pads left, just the spectacularly trashed back plate. The brake piston doesn't look good either, nearly popped out. A caliper boot is also torn. From that picture, I'm definitely thinking a complete rebuild.

The brake pedal red height adjuster must be holding pressure on the brake lever. Otherwise it'd return to a resting state and there'd have been no drag.
How much u think for parts
 

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That's the caliper boot I mentioned.
49006 BOOT,CALIPER

49006-1088

$7.73


Depending on the state of the piston, I'd be looking at getting

43048 PISTON-CALIPER

43048-1068

$67.47



43049 PACKING,PISTON SEAL

43049-1060

$13.12



43049A PACKING,PISTON SEAL

43049-1061

$6.99


Plus new rear pads and brake fluid obviously.

*You'll need to check the disk itself isn't warped. If it's still straight, I'd keep it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Compared to my old brake n it’s looked so messed up lol glad I bought whole thing
 

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Compared to my old brake n it’s looked so messed up lol glad I bought whole thing
Sometimes that just works out better for both the installation and the peace of mind--no worries that you missed something.
 
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