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Nice one, looks like a quality set up. A riding friend of mine has Bitubo front and rear on his MT-09. I agree with your comment about a softer ride providing more feel. The 2.5 wt fork oil does sound crazy light!
It's because they're gas charged forks. So the oil is just on the outside of the cartridge and only needed to lubricated the inside, hence you also don't need to use much. It's not oil used for damping like in more traditional setups. I like mine, only downside is I don't have the equipment to work on the cartridge so I have to send it out to someone that specializes in these. I actually went up a spring size over the winter in mine and I have 0.9 kg/mm springs and I like it better because the front end doesn't dive as much on the brakes.
 

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@falcn why did you change the seals? Was it about time for new ones anyway? When I put my cartridges in the bike had only 400 miles so I didn't feel the need to change them. Now I'm at about 2300 miles and the stock seals are still working fine, no leaks. A friend of mine put SKF seals on his and they started leaking a bit right away. I've heard the tubes on this bike are a PITA to take apart. I'll probably do all of that in the off-season.
 

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How much $ does this set up cost? My Ohlins was pricey, it also requires "special" Ohlins brand light weight fork oil but uses it for dampening unlike the Bitumo's, then they also stick you for their spring too. The system works very well and should for the cost..
They're pretty comparable in price. I got the Bitubo shock and fork cartridges as a set but it was used, and I paid $1000 or something like that. But then I ended up getting new springs for the forks. I think the whole set retails for somewhere in the $1300 range.
 

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1) I wanted SKF low friction seals vs the stock ones. I have them on other bikes and have not had problems with leaking.

2) After heating the forks to get the seals out - they were done. I typically do not reuse seals anyway when rebuilding my forks, its just not worth it to me.

You are right, I could have just left the lower legs together and dropped in the cartridges, but if I am taking out the guts, I am cleaning and inspecting everything. I got this bike used after it had a drop, and I wanted to check the tubes for straightness. It has 5000 miles on it and I also wanted to replace the bushings. This way I know where I am starting at on the front end.
Ok that makes sense. I never took mine apart, just put the cartridges in. I'll do that after this season hopefully. Although I think I have brand new seals that I bought from Norton when I first got my bike, just in case I needed them. Not sure what brand they are but pretty sure it's something else.
 

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That's up quite a few from the stock 0.7 kg/mm - how much do you weigh? How may turns of preload are you running with that? 5/10?
But yeah, it all depends on the rider, what they like for pre-load and brake dive. I might hate it after my first sessions and want to go up a rate or two. We'll see.
230ish unfortunately lol They came with 0.85 springs from the guy I bought them from and felt like the front was diving too much and didn't have much confidence in braking hard. Now, between the stiffer front end and the upgraded master cylinder, I feel much more confident in the hard braking zones.
 

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I might go heavier on the front springs at this point.

Still loving the suspension. .85 might be my next try if I can source them.
I might have .85 springs for those forks. I can't remember if mine came with .80 and I switched to .85, or if they came with .85 and switched to .90. I just know I bought one size stiffer springs than what came with it and I'm not using the softer ones anymore.
 

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How often does the gas have to be recharged in these cartridge's?
I am between these and the andreani but the fact that bitubo drop right in have me leaning towards them.
The Bitubo cardridges are nicer and to me it feels better especially in hard braking turns. I had mine serviced 2 years ago, and I'll probably do it again now just for peace of mind, but I haven't noticed any drop in performance so far. As long as the seals do their job and the nitrogen isn't leaking out, it should last quite a long time.
 

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@falcn Do you have to take out the bottoming cone and top out spring for the installation? Or do you keep them in?
When doing fork cartridges, everything inside the fork comes out. It then gets replaced with the cartridge you're getting. Once you take out the bolt at the bottom, everything inside will come out. It's pretty simple and will make sense when you do it.
 

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@sbk1198 thank for the clarification, I have the same understanding. However, it seems for the Ohlins Nix 22 you have to reuse the bottoming cone and top out spring.
That what made me a bit confused. But all good now.
Yes, for some brands, you may have to use a couple of the stock parts, but they mention it in the instructions. Just follow their instructions and you'll be good.
 
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