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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
@Jim G stick to the kiddy side of the pool when "racers" and avid "trackday" guys are posting. most of what we are posting DOES not relate to you !! to each their own how they want to transport their bike, my post was designed for the guys who have had damaged grips which in turn can hinder the throttle . also with the light weight bikes with lower quality clip-ons that can bend under stress, forks being compressed is another subject. .you and @Rich T can give your input as it may apply, BUT think of this, R&G SATO and other BIG companies make these specifically for purposes as shown.. maybe your small brains can't understand that both ratcheting straps are pulling the bike forward equally, front tire pressed against a solid structure or chalk so it's not going forward and can't roll back for the obvious reason, so WTF are you honesty questioning? falling the F over? HOW? again some people just need to stay out of the deep end of the pool !!! 馃槫
 

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Personally, I think all the tiedowns are terminated TOO LOW on the motorcycle in these photos. In addition, the failure to secure to the ends of the handle bars is also an error.

The problem with both being too low and not attaching to the handlebars is that you are giving the bike great leverage against the tiedowns. This means more tension load on each tiedown, especially as the vehicle goes over irregularities in the pavement, and whenever it goes around corners - especially at highway speeds.

In addition, the resolution of the photos is not good enough to show whether or not you have used any "rails" to secure anything against the tires, on each side, right where they touch the bed of the vehicle. If you have not, that coupled with the low angle of the tiedown due to the too-low termination points on the bike, make it very easy for the bike to tip sideways on even low intensity bumps or turns.

I am a retired mechanical engineer and engineering physicist, and I am telling you that this is NOT a good tiedown scheme. The "standard" tiedown schemes used by everyone else have had decades of development and refinement. Sometimes the "old way" is indeed the best way.

Jim G
Did you seriously just write up a lengthy post of why his method for strapping his bike is a bad way of doing it, when it clearly works?? (after all he didn't just put the bike in the back of the truck to take a picture of it) And then had the audacity to play the "Trust me, I'm an engineer" card?? Jesus, you're lucky I'm in a good mood tonight cuz I was considering giving you a temporary ban just for giving the rest of us engineers a bad image. This is why so many people roll their eyes at us, because there are too many who think they're hot shiit despite having no real world experience and they go out telling everyone "I'm an engineer, so I'm right". Guess what, I'm one as well and I can assure you his method works. You know how I know? Not because I read it in a book, or online, or made some calculations, but because HE DID IT AND IT WORKED!!

I may not be as old as you, but I've worked with many dozens of engineers in my career so far, and met all sorts. Some were exactly like you, and others were not. The best engineers I've worked with were the ones that never said the words "I'm an engineer" unless someone asked them directly what their job is. All these years working as an engineer, and all the 50+ bikes you said you've owned over the last few decades, and I still remember a post you made on here where you said installing aftermarket clip-ons on your Z400 was a difficult task! Sorry, but that's where you lost all your credibility.
 

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Did you seriously just write up a lengthy post of why his method for strapping his bike is a bad way of doing it, when it clearly works?? (after all he didn't just put the bike in the back of the truck to take a picture of it) And then had the audacity to play the "Trust me, I'm an engineer" card?? Jesus, you're lucky I'm in a good mood tonight cuz I was considering giving you a temporary ban just for giving the rest of us engineers a bad image. This is why so many people roll their eyes at us, because there are too many who think they're hot shiit despite having no real world experience and they go out telling everyone "I'm an engineer, so I'm right". Guess what, I'm one as well and I can assure you his method works. You know how I know? Not because I read it in a book, or online, or made some calculations, but because HE DID IT AND IT WORKED!!

I may not be as old as you, but I've worked with many dozens of engineers in my career so far, and met all sorts. Some were exactly like you, and others were not. The best engineers I've worked with were the ones that never said the words "I'm an engineer" unless someone asked them directly what their job is. All these years working as an engineer, and all the 50+ bikes you said you've owned over the last few decades, and I still remember a post you made on here where you said installing aftermarket clip-ons on your Z400 was a difficult task! Sorry, but that's where you lost all your credibility.
it is about physics and jim is right, more leverage and it is more stable. also though, there is more than one way to skin a cat and most of our different methods work. the only end to this discussion [and then it would start 10 more] would be to try the different ways until they failed. i think jim is right but it is usually a moot point. how about am emergency stop, violent swerve or accident? everything is ok until it's not.
 

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Daaaam
Strap the thing down however you want!!
Right, lol

And now, now children, stop fighting........deep side of the pool, shallow side, or kiddie pool.....does not matter, keep this crap up and I am pulling all of you out 'da dang pool!!!

Even lifeguard SBK! (lol joking)

All jokes aside, right there are potential pros and cons to each side.

We should not immediately bash one or the other side for thinking outside the box, unless its clearly wrong and puts someone or others in danger, I mean after all that is what these forums are for.
Its not a one size fits all dang communist forum, one way or another.

Also I know how jetpilot can be passionate and gets pretty worked up over stuff, so go easy on those who disagree with you, your not wrong for doing it your way, and thanks for sharing....and they are not entirely wrong to do it their way either.

Just as pro-gun vs anti-gun......I am all pro gun and have many reasons and arguments why its a better world today, with the proper education, they are amazingly valuable tools......like anything, a hammer in the wrong hands working with window glass can be a bad thing, wrong tool and person for the job.

I am also not going to shove it down your throat and you will swallow it whole or be stoned to death either if you are anti-gun.....but I also would ask you respect my choice, and keep from forcing me to give up my right to choose to protect myself, my family, my countrymen and engage in a sport in safe and responsible manner.

Even wrong ideas can lead to new better ideas and ways of doing things.

A trailer like mine that has the front wheel chocks, jetpilot's way might just work alot better.

I use the Canyon Dancer 2's and I actually made a spacer for my throttle years back to keep my grips from walking up into my controls and causing binding, or lack of snappy return, like others have mentioned.
This works good for me and has never once fell off, or came out, or caused issues, running down the interstate for hundreds of miles.

I have transported bikes to the track, both MX and road course using the usual traditional tie down method, TRS/wheel chokes, etc. but I may have to try this next time because using the canyon dancers I have to remove my lever guards.

Would be nice to securely and safely transport my bike without having to remove and reinstall the lever guards each time.
 

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it is about physics and jim is right, more leverage and it is more stable. also though, there is more than one way to skin a cat and most of our different methods work. the only end to this discussion [and then it would start 10 more] would be to try the different ways until they failed. i think jim is right but it is usually a moot point. how about am emergency stop, violent swerve or accident? everything is ok until it's not.
Yes there are many ways of doing it, and I'm not saying jetpilot's method is the best by any means, but it clearly works since he's done it that way multiple times with no issues. I do it differently. The Pitbull TRS holds the bike at even lower points (rear axle) with nothing else and it's most people's preferred way of carrying bikes because it works well.
 

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Wow some of you guys are tough (Jim). I'm not an engineer, shop, racer, or anything like that, and a year old newbie on 2 wheels. What I am a veteran is driving stuff on 4 (or more) wheels. As a UPS driver of more than a decade I have a pretty good experience on weight and shifting loads. In my experience attaching snugly at the ends/extremities of an object are generally best. As for how tight, well that's a Pandora's box. About compressing the suspension, probably not a good thing to compress it much, and halfway seems a good limit. But heck, as long as you can eliminate the from/back motion, and side/side, and to an extent up/down..... does it really matter how???? I can see frame mounting points that are secure to be effective.

This stuff isn't rocket science overall. Too loose and you risk it coming detached. Too tight also risks damage. But in the end it's just an object that can be insured and replaced. And seriously, a tip over in the back of a moving truck (with shocks absorbers) will still result in less damage than going down at speed on the road or track.

I've done some personal moves of furniture and other stuff too. Took a large bookcase a half hour trip, on it's back in a pickup, and didn't shift a bit. Not tied or attached to anything. Same with a trip of boxes. Hopefully it's not too difficult to understand, but don't drive like an a$$hole. I accelerate and brake slowly, takes turns gently and gradually, keep all the activity smooth and that's MOST of the battle.

Y'all are overthinking this and if something works, then go with it.
 

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I think @bobnoffs hit the nail on the head:

how about am emergency stop, violent swerve or accident? everything is ok until it's not.
A few things to possibly consider with the webbikeworld.com pictures above:

What if a tire goes flat? What if it rains and your wood floor gets soaked?

It looks like they have some kind of rigid mount near the front as well -- not sure if it is actually holding the bike or just the forks thru the steering stem...

I'd probably want some kind of rails on the rear regardless -- and not just rely on rubber-on-wood friction -- but you might get away with it 99 times without them!

Until you don't! :)

These are all great ideas here -- hopefully we can learn from each other and avoid painful mistakes by having this discussion! Thanks!
 

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Pitbull TRS. That's all anyone needs. And if anyone's wondering about the "what if" scenarios, here's one. Small pictures unfortunately, but enough to give you an idea of how bad that crash was

 

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This is how I tie down my bike. Went to Sonoma Raceway yesterday. Only thing I will say I can improve on is the occasional amount of vibration because of the narrower front tire while on the trailer. Doesn't happen with my zx10r.


 

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about the pics of the bike on the wood floor. i had a bike once that started to lean as the tires slid to one side. i absolutely never trailered a bike again without blocking each side of the rear wheel with a piece of 2x4. screw the wood to the floor on each side of the tire. they come off in a minute with a power tool.
the front tire was always secured to the trailer frame.
 

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about the pics of the bike on the wood floor. i had a bike once that started to lean as the tires slid to one side. i absolutely never trailered a bike again without blocking each side of the rear wheel with a piece of 2x4. screw the wood to the floor on each side of the tire. they come off in a minute with a power tool.
the front tire was always secured to the trailer frame.
I agree with you about the block of wood. Best to, like you said, have it blocked on both sides of the tire. While we鈥檙e throwing it out there, I don鈥檛 like the small tubing chocks. I鈥檝e had them leave the tire out of shape after a long haul. I prefer a real chock, like a Baxley or Condor. Love it that I can let go of the bike and go about strapping it down. In whatever way that is. Haaaa. Actually I鈥檓 a handlebar, and triple clamp guy. Two on the grips, and two on the lower triple. If you can't get to the lower clamp, then four on the grips. In case one fails, I have backups. (learned the hard way) Being that it鈥檚 held in the chock, you don鈥檛 need to reef down on the straps much. And then two on the swingarm/axle area pulling forward into the chock. That鈥檚 my story and I鈥檓 sticking to it J
 

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This is how I tie down my bike. Went to Sonoma Raceway yesterday. Only thing I will say I can improve on is the occasional amount of vibration because of the narrower front tire while on the trailer. Doesn't happen with my zx10r.


Thanks for the tips, or idea......what I might do, because mine also has the round bar u-shaped wheel chock, is grab a 2-4 ft long piece of coolant hose that has similar ID and cut it in half, then slice it long ways to wrap around the bar to make it thicker and kind of chock it on either side of the wheel. maybe a few zips ties to hold it in place. That should keep the horizontal movement down possibly.

I should be able to get the hose for next to nothing since my 2nd job is working at O'Reilly's and we sell it by the bulk, lol
 

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