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ABS Main Harness (Front) broke - advice?

8234 Views 37 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  kt133
The ABS light on my 2019 Ninja 400 remains ON while riding. Using the Self Diagnostic, it gave me error code 43 (Front wheel rotation sensor wiring issue). Upon inspection, turns out one of the wire from the main harness to front wheel rotation sensor connect broke (attached picture).

Am I SOL and have to replace the entire main harness or is there another way to fix it?

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I will probably try to give more slack to mine, if it brakes i will solder more wire to it and add a new connector or reuse the older one, i will figure a way to take apart the old one, as i said the **** wires weren't born inside the connector :LOL:
I can go even simpler than that. Just cut the connectors off and solder the wires directly to each other. 😎
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@Duckman it's open heart surgery for some of these guys !! 🤪
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For new owners and first time owners of a motorcycle i bet you it can feel like that, i am not too worried tho, i am pretty good with tools and fixing stuff, soldering a new connector is no big deal.
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For new owners and first time owners of a motorcycle i bet you it can feel like that, i am not too worried tho, i am pretty good with tools and fixing stuff, soldering a new connector is no big deal.
It’s this attitude that makes motorcycle people what they are. I know people that don’t even know the hoods of their car open. That’s fine for them. If you really get into bikes learning to work on them Is part of the experience.

I’ve owned several Italian bikes. Oh good lord you want to talk about a learning experience. :)


PS: this reminds me that I did the direct wire to wire solder on one of my wheel speed sensors on my Ford F-150. The day before heading out on a trip my dog was trying to get to a cat up under the hood. I guess he got pissed and pulled the wire to the sensor out of the connector. Every freaking alarm in the truck went off when I turned the key on. When I found the problem I soldered the wires together thinking one day I’d get new connectors and fix it right. In fact I got the connectors and threw them in the console. Yea rite. That was two years ago. :)
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I feel the exact same way, for me half of the fun of owning motorcycles is wrenching on them, its therapeutic for me. I can spend hours in the garage wrenching.
Based on the previously posted info, that looks like it could definitely be a Yazaki HS025 connector. Yazaki HS025 Series

If you can figure out how to get the pins out of the housing, it should be relatively simple to crimp/solder (assuming you've got the tools/skills to do that) a new $0.15 terminal on the wire and stick it back in the housing. The biggest issue is probably the 1/4" of wire length you're losing, if it's that tight to begin with. Or just cut the other wire at the plug and install a whole new $2.85 plug on the end of the wires.

If you email Joe at Cycle Terminal, he may be able to give you some tips for getting it apart. Some of those are fairly complicated multi-piece housings that have to be assembled in a certain order to end up with a nice sealed final product. And some are designed to never really come apart once they're assembled too.
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Soldering and crimping each have pros and cons...

If you solder, be sure to go light on the solder, use a good no-clean flux, and strain relief the whole joint with marine grade heat shrink so it doesn't try and flex...

If you crimp, be sure to use the right tool for the pin -- try and rip a connection apart on a spare wire and pin, and you should hurt your hand!

Solder Vs Crimping | High Performance Academy (hpacademy.com)

Correctly applied, a solder joint can be strong and offer good conductivity, but a solder joint is also brittle and is prone to failure under continual vibration - Exactly the conditions we can expect in the harsh motorsport environment. This is why we avoid solder joints at all cost in situations where reliability is critical.
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actually @Rich T any break in a solid wire is not good,running new wire is always recommended and if you have to splice,especially if it's gonna be in an outdoor environment,solder and using a good marine grade heat shrink is recommended. growing up I was a mobile electronics guru,in this situation,the best solution would be just cutting and splicing in a new plug if he can't locate an original .trying to do brain surgery on something that should take a few minutes for any moderate person with common wiring knowledge,iI know you are just trying to help...I'm just trying to simplify !! I'm ready to cut my GOD DANG wire off my race bike and send it to this guy to put an end to this simply situation!!
Soldering and crimping each have pros and cons...
Thanks for the tip @Rich T - will keep in mind when it comes to do it. I was able to scrounge a connector, should be getting it in a few days.
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I have been meaning to give an update on this, but kept postponing it due to procrastination. So, I managed to get it fixed - and couldn't do this without you guys inputs. I got the exact replacement part from Cycle Terminal - thanks @InvisiBill ! - then use heat shrink tube with built-in solder. For extra protection, i wrapped it with braided sleeve then zip-tie it. ABS works again now.

Shout out thanks to @Joao18, @Rich T, @InvisiBill, and @jetpilot01!

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Can you please post the part number from Cycle Terminal?
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This just happened to me on my 2019. Very helpful thread. Bump for the part number from Cycle Terminal.
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Exact same thing happened to mine too. I just cut it out and used connectors. Weird both of ours broke at exact same spot and same wire too.
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I know this isn't especially helpful, but since I actually expected the same might happen to me, and since the failure is always in the exact same place, I used heat shrink tubing (before any failure) over the end of the connector and first half-inch or so of the wires, as a preventative measure (to keep them from bending back and forth right at the terminal). Time will tell if I helped or hurt things, I suppose.
I know this isn't especially helpful, but since I actually expected the same might happen to me, and since the failure is always in the exact same place, I used heat shrink tubing (before any failure) over the end of the connector and first half-inch or so of the wires, as a preventative measure (to keep them from bending back and forth right at the terminal). Time will tell if I helped or hurt things, I suppose.
This ☝👆☝
If its the heat shrink or polyolephin as it's technically called and has the epoxy glue in it, even better. Usually this is called dual wall heat shrink and helps to seal connections and add to a better strain relief when done as @Rich T mentioned in his post.
Good call Rich. 🤤👍
Thanks! Yes, I used "marine grade" heat shrink, which has the glue built-in... It's a little messy to undo if you ever have to, but not terrible.
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