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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Since you first got the bike, was there ever a time the clutch did not slip?
I didn't slip in the first 20,000km/12400mi , then with a second clutch it didn't slip for the next 5000km/3100mi.

But farout, thanks for suggesting the clutch lever play a second time. I was grumblingly getting my tools out to pull the clutch after my apparently failed clutch steels sanding. The bike was still hot. I thought FINE, lets check the clutch lever again. The lever felt ok, perhaps insignificantly more slop was needed. I checked the clutch cable tension at the clutch cover and thought, hum, this does have the barest level of tension, surely that's not enough to relieve any clutch spring tension though? I thought I had the clutch adjusted just so it could just push the lever back to full extension, but that was not the case by a several mm. It seemed totally insignificant of an adjustment to me and I expected zero benefit.

So I introduced more slack in the lever so it is was a good few mm away from achieving full extension. Like the way you'd typically set up the lever when using the clutch cable return spring to force the lever open the last few mm.

Aaaand good grief it worked. Honestly I could hardly believe it. I kept hammering on the clutch thinking it couldn't possibly by fixed. Refuelled, hammered some more. But the clutch felt awesome. It's grippy. It's wonderful. It is so good I could marry it 馃槃

I'm just hoping this lasts.

It is quite possible that since the moment I removed the clutch cable return spring, and installed the 600RR clutch springs, that my clutch slipping issue was fixed, but that I continually botched my lever adjustment each time with the 600RR springs. Perhaps something to do with the bike heating up changed the clutch cable tension or something internally just enough, combined with my marginal adjustment, to make that odd difference between hot and cold clutch performance. The clutch always had great grip cold.

I definitely think sanding the glaze/discoloration off the steel plates, and the 600RR springs, has reclaimed my 20,000km original clutch. It's the one I've currently got installed and performing like a champ.
I'm sure both my 20,000km clutch and the 5000km clutch did have the clutch cable adjusted properly at the time they both first started to slip. At the time they started to slip I was relying on the clutch cable return spring to keep the lever at full extension.

Well after all this fluffing around at least I know my clutch is better off.
 

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Well after all this fluffing around at least I know my clutch is better off.
Dang sucks that you went through all that.
Nice that you may have finally figured it out.

I actually adjusted mine with so much slack you can take the metal part of the cable sheath that goes into the clutch lever perch, the knurled adjuster, and you can actually pull it back and forth and wiggle it.
I know I have shared this 101 times by now, but when I bought the bike 205 miles away with only 400 miles on it, I was riding it back on i-75 north(interstate) and hammered into it to make a pass and it started slipping after or around 8 in the same way.

It caught me off guard and I did a another pull confirming that was clutch slip I had known all too well.
Needless to say I messed with the adjustment at the lever, as I was rolling 70-80 down the interstate, until I had it so loose you could move the cable in and out of the adjuster and wiggle it.......after that all my test pulls confirmed no more slippage.

Never had it slip again.

I have since upgraded springs, friction plates and pull rod and return spring for the fun of it as well now.
 

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Wow, dang yeah I would not even chance it on those.
Granted someone in China is making the OE ones, but still. Some stuff is ok from there, but this is not o
I'm with box on this. One thing to strap a part of questionable quality onto your bike, but not into it. Heck my OEM were at 25k mi. And never slipped once.( old man riding ) 馃悏
 
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