Ninja 400 Riders Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
Just thinking out loud here but your friction plates don’t look dry in the photo. When you pull them out they won’t be dripping wet.

With the pressure plate installed is the pull rod able to freely move?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
After the motor is fully warmed up are you checking to see how much free play you have at the lever?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
Oh for Christ’s sake. Just slather some moly-disulfide grease on ‘um and be done with it. It’s an old Ducati trick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
Some racers I know (names will not be mentioned) drill more holes in the hub. But it’s mainly to help on starts. After that the clutch barely gets used.

Try putting the stock pull rod back in and see if it changes anything. Better yet, get the updated Kawasaki pull rod and bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
You need to remember that when the clutch is assembled the pull rod isn’t shoved all the way in.

How wet do these look?
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design Alloy wheel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
I got nothing more here also. Honestly never had any reason to suspect not enough oil. I doubt oil through the shaft around the pull rod is the problem. I think the oil mist that’s kicked up from the spinning clutch is the major source of oiling. When the side cover is on and the bike level look at the site glass to estimate where the oil level is. Even though not submerged in it I’ll bet the spinning clutch and cam chain kicks up a pretty good fog. I have looks at a wet clutch Ducati with a plexiglass side cover when running and it’s interesting. There’s not as much oil flying around as you might think. It’s like looking at the side window of your car when driving in the rain. Just mist and droplets swirling around on the clear cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
It's doing my head in. I'm very frustrated. I'd switch to Yoyodyne but really don't want to pay that much.

I'm pretty sure there is no chain jumping or I'd feel and hear it. Sprockets are still stock and look fine. The front sprocket has the bent washer and factory marking.

I figure the reason it happens in 4th gear but not 5th and 6th is because 4th is closest to 1:1 drive with 8000RPM being the point it really starts to make power.

I wondered if it is was something to do with the oil, but the clutch had been fine for a few 1000k's on the same oil before it started slipping. Regardless I changed the oil + filter and switched to mineral and still had the same problem. Although if there were contaminants I don't know if a single oil change would resolve it.

I'm wondering if it's something to do with the friction material basically going off and never being recoverable from that point?
But then there was also the weird thing where I originally just replaced the clutch fibers, keeping the original steels, and the clutch slipped as before. The original steels were a little discoloured but still flat.
With new steels the clutch immediately returned to 100% for the next 5000ish kms.
Nothing makes sense.

Video of it happening
I missed it. When? Never mind. I saw it. Weird!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
Like everyone has been trying to tell you it has nothing to do with the amount of oil. Just forget that. It’s not the steel plats if they are flat, blue or not. Forget that. If the friction plates measure good forget that. Whether or not you use the judder spring has nothing to do with it. Forget that.

There’s not much left. Like Norton told you check spring pressure. But I think you did that.

I hate to best a dead horse but are you absolutely sure you have plenty of slack in the cable? I know my son cane from riding two stroke motocross bikes and fried the clutch on his 400 like his second time on track.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top