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I’m about to hit my first 600 miles and the dealership told me when I
Bought the bike that they would offer a 600 mile service for $240. I don’t know what all that includes but is this something I should do with them, or am I better off just changing my own oil and reading the manual and figuring out what else to look over on the bike?
 

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I’m about to hit my first 600 miles and the dealership told me when I
Bought the bike that they would offer a 600 mile service for $240. I don’t know what all that includes but is this something I should do with them, or am I better off just changing my own oil and reading the manual and figuring out what else to look over on the bike?
IMO, just read the manual and do the minor maintenance yourself. This way you also learn what minor maintenance tasks are required, and can do them yourself in the future, if you still desire.

Now, if you are not comfortable doing the work, then by all means, take it to the dealership!
 

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I’m about to hit my first 600 miles and the dealership told me when I
Bought the bike that they would offer a 600 mile service for $240. I don’t know what all that includes but is this something I should do with them, or am I better off just changing my own oil and reading the manual and figuring out what else to look over on the bike?
240$ FOR A SIMPLE SERVICE 0_o I made a video watch it and save yourself 200$ your dealer needs to be arrested
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
240$ FOR A SIMPLE SERVICE 0_o I made a video watch it and save yourself 200$ your dealer needs to be arrested https://www.youtubecom/watch?v=Gicl7PzSJ2Y
I already watched your video a while
Back, and was going to change my own oil after watching your video. Thanks it was helpful.

The way the dealership said it was that they were giving me a special price of $240... I already knew that was bs. I’ll figure the rest out on my own.

But I have gone on Kawasaki’s website and it doesn’t seem like the service manual is out yet. Unless this is in the owner manual and I overlooked it?
 

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I’m about to hit my first 600 miles and the dealership told me when I
Bought the bike that they would offer a 600 mile service for $240. I don’t know what all that includes but is this something I should do with them, or am I better off just changing my own oil and reading the manual and figuring out what else to look over on the bike?
Absolutely you can do it you're self, You don't need to be mechanically Inclined to change your Oil & filter, Do watch emudshit's video if you decide to do it yourself - Check your chain and Clutch lever Play/Tension, The chain may be an issue if you're not mechanically Inclined. There is a stand you can get that makes changing your oil, adjusting & lubricating your chain much easier. Keep in mind your dealer will check many other common areas of a new bike, they see these bikes every day and may catch and correct issues early on that you might not be aware of, Do a price check with other authorized dealers and ask your dealer what you get for the $240.00 bucks - then compare apples.

Paddock Cycle Stand Makes life much easier, and gets that kick stand out of the way while changing the oil.

I absolutely agree that you should learn to maintain your bike your self, Maintenance costs a small fortune taking it to a dealer, I have always done my own maintenance - but I let the dealer do the first 600 mile to start off. doing your own maintenance usually wont void your warranty but check and make sure, Some extended warranty companies require dealer visits. If you do the maintenance your self, take a photo of the Maintenance supplies receipt ( Oil & filter, chain lube and anything else ) next to your odometer showing the miles... Also keep a running log book going of what you did & when.

Thats my 2 cents..
 

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I did my own 1000km/600mile service and all that needed doing other than changing oil and filter was to take some slack out of the throttle cables as they stretch when new and I give them a good work out hitting the stop all the time Ha ha.. It's in the owners book how to do that little job.
Go for it mate, save your $$$.
 

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I did my own 1000km/600mile service and all that needed doing other than changing oil and filter was to take some slack out of the throttle cables as they stretch when new and I give them a good work out hitting the stop all the time Ha ha.. It's in the owners book how to do that little job.
Go for it mate, save your $$$.
lol are you trying to throw the poor guy under a bus, Allow me to play devils advocate for a moment..! your obviously capable..! Is he..? He has plenty of time to learn after his first 600 mile check up, The shop should technically check excessive play of all stranded wire components, Oil & Filter change, Coolant and fuel leaks, intake & Suction leaks, Adjust chain tension & lube, some recalibrate the ECU and other on board electronics, check breaking system components, Check tire Pressure along with a few other items I'm forgetting.

I don't know how much of this stuff he is capable of doing him self.. Is he mechanically inclined and worked on other types of vehicles. What if he takes all the play plus some out of the throttle and clutch cables - that will cause issues for sure.

Changing the oil & filter is one thing he can easily do and needs to learn, learning other basic maintenance takes time if your starting from ground Zero.. I figure anyone asking if they should do an oil change them selves may not have the capacity to check everything else. If all that was needed was just an oil & filter change I would say go for it too.. But without knowing his abilities I just cant recommend it. Maybe I'm all wet but i'd rather err on the safe side.

He should check and see if he can get a discount on the 600 mile checkup minus the oil & filter change he does him self maybe - I'd be cool with that too..!
 

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... The shop should technically check excessive play of all stranded wire components, Oil & Filter change, Coolant and fuel leaks, intake & Suction leaks, Adjust chain tension & lube, some recalibrate the ECU and other on board electronics, check breaking system components, Check tire Pressure along with a few other items I'm forgetting.
The key word in that paragraph is should. How many actually do.
 

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As someone not that mechanically inclined (I do oil changes, check tire pressure, check fluids, that's about it), I'm going to try'n do most of the stuff myself on my 400. I recently cleaned/waxed the chain, adjusted chain slack (it was at 40 mm vs the 20-30 mm spec at 400 mi -- didn't check right after I got it). Honestly, it took me probably 4-6x the time it should have, but next time it'll be a breeze.

I dunno if that helps you, but $240 sounds like robbery to me.
 

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$240 is the standard.

Im gonna play devils advocate too. I got the service plan, yes i can change oil and filter, ive done some maintenance on some of my cars (starters, window actuators etc) but....


Your dealer/shop should be checking and doing more than oil and filter. Im told they also do a valve check.

My first 600 maintenance they spent almost 3 hrs with my bike. When i got it back, the clutch felt better, the bike felt punchier and just all around a ton better, and im pretty sure more than just an oil change can do.
 

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$240 is the standard.

Im gonna play devils advocate too. I got the service plan, yes i can change oil and filter, ive done some maintenance on some of my cars (starters, window actuators etc) but....


Your dealer/shop should be checking and doing more than oil and filter. Im told they also do a valve check.

My first 600 maintenance they spent almost 3 hrs with my bike. When i got it back, the clutch felt better, the bike felt punchier and just all around a ton better, and im pretty sure more than just an oil change can do.
Valve check is not part of the 600 mile service.
 

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"This is someone who's been red-line-ing it." What? You shouldn't go over 4k rpms for the first 500 miles. Guess he didn't give a shite.
 

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"This is someone who's been red-line-ing it." What? You shouldn't go over 4k rpms for the first 500 miles. Guess he didn't give a shite.
I'm not quite sure who you are quoting but I think we all need to agree to disagree on the observance of the 'not over 4K rpms for the first 500 miles' guideline.

Each to their own and all that. :)
 

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Like @Kiwi Rider, I do not see valve check mentioned at ~600 miles (1,000 km). I need to learn some basic maintenance so I was planning to do my own oil change for the 600 mile and inspect some of the items based on what's outlined in the manual. If a valve check is required, how hard is this is to do and any special tools required? I may just opt for the dealer to do the first oil change if they are doing much more than that.
 

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I plan on doing the basics, just slightly more thorough than a typical oil change...

Oil / filter change, inspect air filter, check over key nuts & bolts for proper torque, lube and check tension for all cables, clean / lube chain & check tension, etc...

There should really be no reason that I am aware of to check valves this early in an engines life. Service interval for the valves on the 400 is actually quite high if I remember correctly.

I can't think of a good reason to pay dealership prices for a first service personally. Or for any "general" service for that matter.
 

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I plan on doing the basics, just slightly more thorough than a typical oil change...

Oil / filter change, inspect air filter, check over key nuts & bolts for proper torque, lube and check tension for all cables, clean / lube chain & check tension, etc...

There should really be no reason that I am aware of to check valves this early in an engines life. Service interval for the valves on the 400 is actually quite high if I remember correctly.

I can't think of a good reason to pay dealership prices for a first service personally. Or for any "general" service for that matter.
Good to know. Thanks!

Is there something in the manual that provides the basic torque required based on the nuts/bolts? I'm new to motorcycle maintenance. Should the torque requirements be intuitive? Also for the bolts on the fairings, do they need to be torqued or require any loctite (blue) or just hand tighten is sufficient?
 

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Actual torque values will be in the service manual (which unfortunately doesn't seem to be available yet).

https://www.kawasaki.com/ServiceManuals/Manual/EX400GJFA

I plan to purchase as soon as its actually available for sale. Not cheap, but a worthwhile investment IMO, especially if you plan on servicing yourself as I do, and pays for itself several times over in one service anyway.

If you've wrenched on bikes at all, and I may get flamed for saying this, but the vast majority you can go by feel or use torque specs from a similar bike. I personally use a torque wrench for axle nuts and such, but don't really bother for most of the other bolts you'd encounter in all but very invasive work.

I wouldn't bother with locktite on fairing bolts or similar. Hand tight without overdoing it is fine. I do use blue locktite on things like swingarm spools as those have a tendency to back out over time otherwise.

Again, just my personal opinions / my own plan of attack.

Good to know. Thanks!

Is there something in the manual that provides the basic torque required based on the nuts/bolts? I'm new to motorcycle maintenance. Should the torque requirements be intuitive? Also for the bolts on the fairings, do they need to be torqued or require any loctite (blue) or just hand tighten is sufficient?
 
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Actual torque values will be in the service manual (which unfortunately doesn't seem to be available yet).

https://www.kawasaki.com/ServiceManuals/Manual/EX400GJFA

I plan to purchase as soon as its actually available for sale. Not cheap, but a worthwhile investment IMO, especially if you plan on servicing yourself as I do, and pays for itself several times over in one service anyway.

If you've wrenched on bikes at all, and I may get flamed for saying this, but the vast majority you can go by feel or use torque specs from a similar bike. I personally use a torque wrench for axle nuts and such, but don't really bother for most of the other bolts you'd encounter in all but very invasive work.

I wouldn't bother with locktite on fairing bolts or similar. Hand tight without overdoing it is fine. I do use blue locktite on things like swingarm spools as those have a tendency to back out over time otherwise.

Again, just my personal opinions / my own plan of attack.
Thanks again for your input. This is my second motorcycle and I opted to take in my first motorcycle (Ducati Scrambler) in for any maintenance and repairs which got pricey. Lesson learned. I want to start saving money and learn how to some of the basics myself. I wonder why the service manual is not available yet. I plan to purchase one once it's available.
 
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