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How to disable ABS gauge light?
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Just to add to this, power wire pin 7 is jumped to pin 6 power supply to rear wheel sensor. Next, the rear wheel rotation sensor input signal (pin 15) is jumped to the rear wheel rotation signal output (pin 3). The rear wheel rotation signal output (pin 3, Green wire) is already connected directly to the ECU. The ECU input terminal is pin 15. Thoughts?
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Um. Yes. Exactly that. I realized now that I posted the abs unit pins for the ZX6R. Here’s what the picture should have been, which matches what you have there. 3373A157-35F8-4E35-A63E-0A6587DF65FA.png
 

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Um. Yes. Exactly that. I realized now that I posted the abs unit pins for the ZX6R. Here’s what the picture should have been, which matches what you have there. View attachment 14640
I tested your method first, never tried my method, which probly won't work, haha. Thanks for posting the warning ^. The rear wheel rotation sensor wire BK/O connected to pin 14 of the ECU. The W/G wire connected to pin 32. Additionally, I removed the Green wire (pin 15) at the ECU.

Also, I removed the entire ABS hydraulic module, front wheel sensor, brake lines, everything. Now the bike is almost 4 pounds lighter, and the airflow to my modified air-box is no longer impeded by the ABS module.

Yes, the speedometer is now functional! No DTC's. BUTT, the ABS light is ON. Would you suggest grounding out the ABS indicator light (pin 13)?

I'll post a comprehensive DIY on this topic once the ABS light is diminished.
 

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FINALLY! SUCCESS!

Yellow ABS light gone! Speedo functional!!!


DIY coming soon fellas!



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ABS DELETE MOD DIY

Tested on a 2018 N400 ABS wire harness with ECU series 21175-1371 (California).

This mod will retain rear wheel speed sensor (speedometer) and extinguish the yellow led ABS gauge meter light.
You will have to do some shopping for the ECU crimp socket connectors. Aftermarket brake lines will be needed to bypass the ABS system.

Materials needed:
Socket set to remove fairings, fuel tank, air-box, optional rear paddock stand (to make it easier to remove your fuel tank and airbox), JAE crimp connectors, electrical crimping pliers, thick gauge paper-clip, electric tape or heat shrink tubing with lighter, large sewing needle, small flat-tip screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, nitrile or rubber gloves to shroud the ABS connector, zip-ties, cutter.
You will need to purchase the crimp connectors for the ECU. I bought them from Mouser Electronics here: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/JAE-Electronics/M23S05K351?qs=/ha2pyFadugoOm74/rXbAeRYQCk9Hhji1BuTCON1Ck8=.
Shipping was flat rate 20 doll hairs express overnight service. They're 24 cents each. You only need 2, however, I suggest you get a few of em to practice your crimping technique. So I bought 15 pieces to practice my crimping, because they must be crimped to the correct size to fit properly into the ECU terminal slots. Too fat and it won't go in. They're made of tin, soft and bendable, but will break if bent many times.
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Installation time: 1-3 days solo, depending on experience. May take a few hours if you got helping hands.


Procedure:

Step 1: Put bike on rear paddock stand. Disconnect battery terminal (-) ground. Remove fairings, fuel tank, air-box, ABS lines, front wheel speed sensor, ABS hydraulic module, ABS frame bracket. Check out this forum and STG (SportBikeTrackGear.com) for removal videos.

Step 2: With the ABS hydraulic module removed, we can go ahead and jump pin 13 to pin 10 of the ABS connector using a thick gauge paper-clip or jumper wire. Essentially, we are grounding out the connection to the yellow ABS LED gauge meter light (section 16-65 in the service manual). Just be sure connections are good and tight so they don't dislodge due to vibrations. You can secure connections with electric tape.
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Step 3: Shrouding the ABS connector from water and the elements to prevent shorts is important. In testing, I just used 2 layers of nitrile gloves. Use whatever you wish to shroud the connector, just be sure it is durable and not susceptible to heat. Let me know what would work best as a shroud, maybe silicone? Then, I zip-tied the connector to the bracket so it is out of the way of the airflow to my modified air-box hole:
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Step 4: Re-pinning the ECU
Carefully remove the ECU from the wire harness. There should be a tab on the connector to press down while releasing the ECU. Handle the ECU with care and put it aside.

Next, remove the connector front cap:
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Step 5: Before disconnecting the Green wire from pin 15 of the terminal connector using a long-nose plier. The pin is mechanically locked in its place, not sure what the lock is called, so we must push in with an upward motion using a sewing needle to release the socket connector. You can feel the lock release as the socket connector will easily release. The lock is hard to describe but here is a picture:

This is how the crimp connector should look like. Pay attention to its orientation. It can only be inserted in the socket housing ONE WAY. This green wire is now unused and must be capped off. I used heat shrink tubing.
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continued...
 

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ABS DELETE MOD DIY continued


Step 6: The front wheel rotation speed sensor will no longer be used, as it is utilized only for the ABS system. Therefore we can remove it from the bike. We will use the front wheel rotation sensor connector as the link between the rear wheel rotation sensor and the ECU. It will be a direct connection. I could not find the type of connector used for the wheel speed sensors online, hence, I had to use the front wheel speed sensor connector at the main harness. Fear not, these wires can be easily crimped/soldered back to original setup if wanting to return to ABS, so no worries there, and we saved a couple bucks doing it.

Here is the snipped off front wheel rotation speed sensor connector. Make sure you get more wire slack than I have here, so you have more wiggle room. Next, cap off the front wheel rotation sensor wires at the main harness using electric tape or shrink tube. Then, we will crimp the JAE socket connector contacts to the front wheel rotation sensor connector wires:
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Step 7: Here, we will be crimping the JAE socket contact connectors to the front wheel rotation sensor connector.
This will take some practice and one or few fumbled crimps, depending on your skill level. Get a decent electrical crimp pliers:
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Below, as an example, notice how flat the crimp section is as viewed from the side of the connector. If you crimped it wrong and it is too fat, it will not slide into the connector housing. It should slide in with minimal resistance.
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Final connector wires should look like this:
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Take note of the wire colors of the front wheel speed sensor connector shown above. We will connect the wires to the ECU to coincide with the wire colors of the rear wheel rotation sensor. Not sure if they are polarity sensitive, haven't tested that, so we will be uniform here. In a non ABS bike (EX400H) the rear wheel rotation sensor wires connect directly to the ECU. Both ABS and non ABS bikes utilize the same rear wheel rotation sensor.

Step 8: Here we will insert the wheel rotation sensor wires to the socket housing. Before that, we need to remove the white plastic dummy plugs using the sewing needle. Of the two dummy plugs removed, one will be used to fill the hole in pin 15. Save and keep the other one.
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Connect the Black with White Stripe wire to pin 14 of the socket housing.
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Then, connect the White with Black Stripe wire to pin 32 of the socket housing:
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That's all with the re-pinning of the ECU. You can now re-install the ECU to the wire harness and install it to the bike. Here it is with the rear wheel rotation sensor connected to the ECU. Remember, I told you to cut a long wire slack for wiggle room under the seat? This way you could reconnect the wheel sensor to the plastic base plate above the ECU. Lolz, I cut the wire too short and could not reach the anchor point for the wheel sensor connector bracket. Not a problem, I just tucked the connectors atop the ECU.
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Step 10: Re-install plastic base plate, sensors, air-box, fuel tank, fairings, battery ground terminal (-), etc. Make sure all connections are in place before firing up the bike. And you're done!!!
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Thanks for watching!


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Has anyone completely removed the ABS on this bike?

Does this lead to any ECU or performance issues other than just error codes?
Is it possible to swap in a non-ABS ECU (or are they the same ECU anyway)?
So far I put in over 60 km of test riding with the ABS system delete. I have no error codes, a functional speedo, ABS warning light gone, with no side-effects performance wise. Adding a non ABS ECU, will require the mod that I posted because the wire harness is different.
 

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There are 2 ECU types for the North America N400's years 2018-?. California has the 1371, and the rest of USA and Canada has the 1332 series. Don't know their differences internally, but i do know that the main wire harnesses differ in the ABS and non ABS bikes, and the special case only for the California harness with the Purge Valve sensor.

Without further testing, I would assume that both these ECU's are the same internally and could be swapped. But would require re-pinning and so forth to enable speedometer, disable abs warning light, and disable purge valve warning light.
 

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Good work and great write up with pics. Thank you! I'm just going to stick with my present set up for now and leave the unit in place for the future sale. By just changing the lines and plugging at the unit you don't throw a light.
 

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Very comprehensive right up. I have not gotten a chance lately to work on either bike other than to prep the next track day, but will use this when I get time later this fall. Thank you for the extra time you've taken to do all of the leg work, pictures and writing it all up so that anyone caring to get rid of the light and or the entire ABS unit can so correctly.
 

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This is really great. I’m glad you were able to get it all figured out!
 

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Yeah, nothing's fried yet! Haha!
 
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