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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone completely removed the ABS on this bike?

Does this lead to any ECU or performance issues other than just error codes?
Is it possible to swap in a non-ABS ECU (or are they the same ECU anyway)?
 

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I bought mine and it came without ABS. I was kinda bummed, but I've been seeing people talking about pulling or disabling their ABS. Is it just so you can skid to a 180° stop every time you're ready to park it? That's why I would do it (because that's how bikes are parked, obviously), but there may be other advantages of which I am unaware. Are there?
 

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I bought mine and it came without ABS. I was kinda bummed, but I've been seeing people talking about pulling or disabling their ABS. Is it just so you can skid to a 180° stop every time you're ready to park it? That's why I would do it (because that's how bikes are parked, obviously), but there may be other advantages of which I am unaware
I can't think of any advantages of disabling the ABS system for normal street use. Granted, an ABS brake system is a more complicated set up, with more to potentially go wrong. But to disable a perfectly good ABS system makes no more sense to me than disabling, any one of many, other safety switches/devices on the modern motorcycle. They just work too well to justify removing them.
 

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I can't do "stoppies," but I can almost always stop, so i figure I can live without ABS. But the n400 is my first fuel injected bike, and I hope to never go back to carbs unless I'm doing another rat ride just for fun. It's so nice not having to think about my stupid effing carbs.
 

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I'm taking the plunge too. Ordered the non abs braided lines for it. I mostly plan to use the bike for the canyons and some track days.
 

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I have a 2018 with abs. It is nice having the "safety" for regular riding. However, abs has its issues. The more aggressive your riding, the more apparent the issues. Basically I have found that when braking, if I hit a bump, front or rear, enough to make the tire lose grip for just a moment, the abs kicks in. It is a rather surprising, if not violent intrusion on my braking expectation of the moment. Braking max is compromised and distances become greater. However, when hitting an area of sand or wet paint that was unexpected, it is a welcome addition. Just set your expectations.
 

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Oh! Nice! Is someone actively looking to remove the whole ABS unit as well? If you’re feeling brave and understand simple electronics (or think logically and want to learn some), I want to run an idea/experiment past you (unless someone else has figured out how to do it without one of those plugs). I just haven’t had the chance to test it in my bike yet as another project is really getting in the way of getting anything else done to it.
 

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Here's what I know: On the Ninja I have just removed the OEM rubber lines from the ABS unit and plugged them. All the ABS electrics including both wheel sensors are still in place. This is the best option as it does not trigger the ABS light on the dash. Therefore I can still pass a Warrant of Fitness (NZ) / Road worthy (AUS) / MOT (UK) / Woteva you call it in the US inspection.

On my SV race bike however I wanted to remove the complete system to reduce weight. I did this last weekend. Despite there being a $hit load of wires on the ABS plug it still starts and runs as per normal with the plug now unplugged. Sure the ABS light is on but doesn't matter on a race bike. So obviously this is a totally different system to the Ninja but I just mentioned it as an example of a bike still operating normally with the ABS fully unplugged and removed. I too would be interested to hear if anyone has any experience of full ABS removal on the Ninja.
 

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Kiwi, I was digging into the wiring on this a while ago and here is what I’ve come up with. The ABS unit only touches the ECU at the rear wheel speed sensor. It’s self contained pretty well. The front speed sensor, goes nowhere except the ABS unit. The diagnostic line ends at the diagnostic terminal, so it doesn’t touch the ECU. The LED for the ABS light has it’s own line. I would assume it wouldn’t turn on if it was disconnected (rare case it uses a ground signal at the meter, so we ground it?). The other wires are just power and relays. So my thought is if you bridge the wheel speed sensor input/output and speed sensor power supply, the ECU won’t see anything different, speedometer should work fine. We all know my favorite fix for anything on this bike is jumper wires...

Here’s what needs tested. The input voltage going into the unit (pin 7, BW/W wire, powers a ton of stuff outside of this) needs to match the voltage coming out of the unit (pin 6, BK/O). I would assume it would. If you look at the non-ABS wiring, the rear wheel speed sensor touches the ECU directly, I added a few pics to better visualize this.
FE06013D-5059-4A66-9314-F48641496A06.png 64D047C0-C5DD-4024-9491-72B3A287BD0A.jpeg
 

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Kiwi, I was digging into the wiring on this a while ago and here is what I’ve come up with. The ABS unit only touches the ECU at the rear wheel speed sensor. It’s self contained pretty well. The front speed sensor, goes nowhere except the ABS unit. The diagnostic line ends at the diagnostic terminal, so it doesn’t touch the ECU. The LED for the ABS light has it’s own line. I would assume it wouldn’t turn on if it was disconnected (rare case it uses a ground signal at the meter, so we ground it?). The other wires are just power and relays. So my thought is if you bridge the wheel speed sensor input/output and speed sensor power supply, the ECU won’t see anything different, speedometer should work fine. We all know my favorite fix for anything on this bike is jumper wires...

Here’s what needs tested. The input voltage going into the unit (pin 7, BW/W wire, powers a ton of stuff outside of this) needs to match the voltage coming out of the unit (pin 6, BK/O). I would assume it would. If you look at the non-ABS wiring, the rear wheel speed sensor touches the ECU directly, I added a few pics to better visualize this.
View attachment 14129 View attachment 14130
rkturbo, thank you for the leg work. I will give this a try on my sons bike after I remove the entire ABS system. We are currently riding track days with the warning light on and like several of you I don't like warning lights on that I ignore or tape over. Jumper wires work for me as well as resistors.
 

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rkturbo, thank you for the leg work. I will give this a try on my sons bike after I remove the entire ABS system. We are currently riding track days with the warning light on and like several of you I don't like warning lights on that I ignore or tape over. Jumper wires work for me as well as resistors.
No problem! I had to diagnose an ABS issue I created for myself, so I got pretty cozy with it. Definitely keep us posted, I might be able to help sort out any issues we come across.
 

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Here's what I know: On the Ninja I have just removed the OEM rubber lines from the ABS unit and plugged them. All the ABS electrics including both wheel sensors are still in place. This is the best option as it does not trigger the ABS light on the dash. Therefore I can still pass a Warrant of Fitness (NZ) / Road worthy (AUS) / MOT (UK) / Woteva you call it in the US inspection.

On my SV race bike however I wanted to remove the complete system to reduce weight. I did this last weekend. Despite there being a $hit load of wires on the ABS plug it still starts and runs as per normal with the plug now unplugged. Sure the ABS light is on but doesn't matter on a race bike. So obviously this is a totally different system to the Ninja but I just mentioned it as an example of a bike still operating normally with the ABS fully unplugged and removed. I too would be interested to hear if anyone has any experience of full ABS removal on the Ninja.
We have absolutely O inspections here in California on our motorcycles. I can remove every bit of smog parts and install pretty much any pipe and their is no inspections. It's possible to get a ticket for loud pipes but rare. Sorry, off topic.
 

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We have absolutely O inspections here in California on our motorcycles. I can remove every bit of smog parts and install pretty much any pipe and their is no inspections. It's possible to get a ticket for loud pipes but rare. Sorry, off topic.
That's a nice liberal system you got there! It's pretty good here too. First inspection is at three years on a brand new bike then every year after that. They don't go looking for trouble though. They wont know I've removed all the emissions junk and bypassed the ABS. No sweating required 😄
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I have the so called ABS delete plug, however it is not installed yet. Unfortunately, it is so heavily potted, that any attempts of dissecting it will surely destroy it. I'll have to be extra careful. I will check the pin readouts and their possible functions.
FYI, currently I still have the stock ABS module connected to the bike, all ports plugged with bolts, and all ABS lines binned as others have shown above. No ABS error codes ever. Looking forward to binning the entire system and shedding 4.3 lbs. I'll install the ABS delete plug when I get the Norton power package.
 
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I’ve had that ABS delete plug (and the direct brake lines) in my shopping cart twice now; I’m reluctant to remove a safety feature, but I don’t ride in the rain and I don’t use the rear brake for stopping, plus I’m pretty good at threshold braking, even in stressful situations. At around $400 for the plug & lines, that’s about $100/lb for weight savings, not the best cost/benefit on this bike, but not the worst either when I think about some other things I’ve bought for it.

The fact that I can’t get my front brake properly bled is probably going to push me to finally placing that order, just to take the ABS module out of the equation.
 

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Some would argue, "why not just buy the non ABS bike in the first place". 2 reasons I went with ABS; the blue colorway was only available with ABS, and ABS equipped bikes generally have cheaper insurance premiums. i gather it is not really a big mistake there.
 
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Some would argue, "why not just buy the non ABS bike in the first place". 2 reasons I went with ABS; the blue colorway was only available with ABS, and ABS equipped bikes generally have cheaper insurance premiums. i gather it is not really a big mistake there.
Your bike should also be easier to sell later, given that it’s the first bike for a lot of folks. Having ABS will be a selling point.

I think I just solved my brake bleeding issue. My front wheel sits a few mm left of where it should be (I believe my bearings got unseated when the front took some slight trauma, my spacer on the right sticks out farther than it should, though it’s up against the bearing), which means the rotor is not centered in the caliper. I just unbolted the caliper mount and let it recenter (it’s a full-floating caliper now lol) and the issue seems to be gone. I’ll know for sure once I get my new wheel on. That should also explain the excessive brake drag.
 
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