[Pat]

If it helps, the stock ones look great and are easy to install. No cutting as SteelHand mentioned. You can see it installed here or from pictures I posted previously:

 

[aWanderlustSeoul]

I recommend frame sliders for any bike since it will save expensive plastics in the event of a driveway drop or low speed fall. At higher speeds, they also prevent parts of your bike from catching the pavement and causing it to flip since the slippery Delrin ends wear down as they contact the pavement.

I acknowledge the Kawasaki frame sliders are offset. Instead of transmitting a direct axial force, they transmit that force coupled with a twisting due to the offset that could potentially damage the frame in the case of severe impacts. An ideal situation is to have the sliders mounted directly into the mounting holes of the frame to avoid this issue. However, the fairing geometry prevents this, so cutting the fairing would be necessary. I'm not too worried about this for a few reasons:
1. The sliders have a long straight length which sits flush inside the hole in the frame to reduce the heel toe prying force in the case of a drop.
2. If you are crashing hard enough to damage your frame in this manner, you have other more important things to worry about.

Because this bike is for my wife and she won't be tracking it (and I really hope she doesn't crash it, much less crash hard enough to damage the frame), I don't feel the need to install perfectly axial frame sliders and cut the fairing apart.

The install is easy once all the bodywork is removed:
1. Remove the seat as described in the lithium battery install guide.
2. Remove the two bolts that hold the textured side covers on. Pop these off.
3. Remove the plastic closeout that wraps around the upper part of the fairing and joins the two sides together. This is just above the front wheel and has 4x bolts and numerous plastic clips.
4. Unbolt the 2x screws on each side of the fairing that connect to the belly pan.
5. At this point, you can remove the belly pan if desired by removing the the plastic clip holding it together at the center right behind the front wheel.
6. There are several bolts securing the fairing sides to the frame. Remove these and lightly pull at locations where there are friction fasteners. The two fairing sides should come off and you should have access to the frame location where the sliders will mount.
7. Install the frame sliders per the included instructions. It's really simple: short bolts with thread locker coupled with circular spacers mount each adapter to the frame, then install the sliders themselves with the long bolts, nuts, and washers. Installed product looks good!

@Pat -- For someone like me that has never removed bodywork/fairings, how much time and effort do you think it will take? I'm thinking at least 2 hours for me to figure everything out and then hopefully it will be much easier and faster once I know what I'm doing. Also at what torque specification do you recommend when installing the frame sliders/bolts? I need to buy a good torque wrench that's accurate but not too pricey.

 

[Pat]

It's a little under an hour to pull the body work off, attach frame sliders, and reinstall on both sides. If you've never done it before I'd say 2 hours is reasonable. Take pictures before so you know where everything goes; otherwise buy the service manual but I don't think they are out yet.

Manual here for install: https://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999941036/ii_999941036.pdf
Torque from adapter to frame is 21 ft-lb, torque for the bolts that hold the sliders on to the adapter I believe is 19 to 25 ft-lb per the table, but you would need to double check the bolt dimensions to be sure. I think I remember it being a 10 mm fastener but measure it with calipers. Otherwise gutentight is going to work fine as you are threading into steel so there is less concern of stripping the threads. This isn't a joint that needs torque to prevent separation, the torque is purely to keep the bolt preloaded so it can't loosen. If you are paranoid about it loosening throw some blue loctite on there for secondary retention and call it a day.

 

[Pat]

Also to answer your question about torque wrenches, this guy should work great for most items on the bike:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FMPKAD0&pd_rd_r=AHBYDYH3M5RW5B6WFJ78&pd_rd_w=rFcjZ&pd_rd_wg=wPlbv&psc=1&refRID=AHBYDYH3M5RW5B6WFJ78

As far as torque wrenches go it is good quality and inexpensive. I have the 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Never verified calibration but I'm sure they are fine. Definitely don't compare them to Snap-On but they are easy to use and get the job done.

 

[aWanderlustSeoul]

It's a little under an hour to pull the body work off, attach frame sliders, and reinstall on both sides. If you've never done it before I'd say 2 hours is reasonable. Take pictures before so you know where everything goes; otherwise buy the service manual but I don't think they are out yet.

Manual here for install: https://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999941036/ii_999941036.pdf
Torque from adapter to frame is 21 ft-lb, torque for the bolts that hold the sliders on to the adapter I believe is 19 to 25 ft-lb per the table, but you would need to double check the bolt dimensions to be sure. I think I remember it being a 10 mm fastener but measure it with calipers. Otherwise gutentight is going to work fine as you are threading into steel so there is less concern of stripping the threads. This isn't a joint that needs torque to prevent separation, the torque is purely to keep the bolt preloaded so it can't loosen. If you are paranoid about it loosening throw some blue loctite on there for secondary retention and call it a day.

Thanks Pat! Really appreciate your advice/guidance. I did not think about taking pictures and I'm sure that will really help. Once I get some frame sliders, I'll plan to spend one day over the weekend to work on it.

 

[aWanderlustSeoul]

Also to answer your question about torque wrenches, this guy should work great for most items on the bike:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FMPKAD0&pd_rd_r=AHBYDYH3M5RW5B6WFJ78&pd_rd_w=rFcjZ&pd_rd_wg=wPlbv&psc=1&refRID=AHBYDYH3M5RW5B6WFJ78

As far as torque wrenches go it is good quality and inexpensive. I have the 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Never verified calibration but I'm sure they are fine. Definitely don't compare them to Snap-On but they are easy to use and get the job done.

Thanks! Definitely reasonable in price so I'll take a look on Amazon.

 

[rde09]

@Pat -- For someone like me that has never removed bodywork/fairings, how much time and effort do you think it will take? I'm thinking at least 2 hours for me to figure everything out and then hopefully it will be much easier and faster once I know what I'm doing. Also at what torque specification do you recommend when installing the frame sliders/bolts? I need to buy a good torque wrench that's accurate but not too pricey.

Do you have a Harbor Freight close to your home, they have some fairly inexpensive torque wrenches? You can get a 3/8" torque wrench for $14.99 this weekend (19.99-25% off = 14.99)

 

[aWanderlustSeoul]

Do you have a Harbor Freight close to your home, they have some fairly inexpensive torque wrenches? You can get a 3/8" torque wrench for $14.99 this weekend (19.99-25% off = 14.99)

@red09 I ended up ordering the one Pat recommended on Amazon for $38 (includes tax). I'm not familiar with Harbor Freight Tools. It looks like there's a store in Brooklyn and the Bronx. I'll definitely have to check it out especially if there's a sale this weekend. Thanks!

 

[mikecronis]

If you can get Craftsman or Snap-On, I'd recommend that. I've broken a lot of 10mm sockets from Harbor Freight. You get what you pay for. Good luck!

 

[baykaksyon]

Thanks for the guides and photos, Pat. I too would like to work on the bike myself. I've done a little of it on another bike but nothing really too deep and technical (adjust valves, clean carb). I see you didn't change the Ninja's side mirrors, something I'd like to do as they really jut out and restrict the ability to filter through unmoving traffic (the normal in this country). I was just wondering if the smaller N300 side mirrors (which I've read here are a direct replacement) provide a good rear view of traffic. Also would you or anyone know if aftermarket spools for the N300 fit the N400 directly? (I'd hate to have to ground them down as I only have files, not a grinding wheel or Dremel tool.) They're the kind most available here in the Philippines.

 

[baykaksyon]

Or what about bar end mirrors on the N400, as I think some people have done? I've never used them so I'm a little anxious about how effective they are.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Or what about bar end mirrors on the N400, as I think some people have done? I've never used them so I'm a little anxious about how effective they are.

I'm a fan because they dont show your shoulders! Yes you have to turn your head more tho. Also i think they look better than the bug antennae OEM mirrors, but that's personal preference.
To be fair the mirrors on the N400 are some of the better ones I've had on a bike. They are blur free (vibration) and are wide enough to give you a reasonable view.
I've ordered some bar end mirrors off wish.com.

 

[baykaksyon]

Thanks, Kiwi Rider, that's reassuring.

 

[atonyshepherd]

Decals are high quality stripes from Award Decals. They are meant for football helmets, but no reason why they can't fit on a motorcycle helmet. Color is Dark Yellow Gold, which matches the bike color perfectly. Width I got was 1".
https://awarddecals.com/product/football-helmet-stripes-1/#!

Did you have to buy the minimum of 15 decals the site requires? $45 seems like a lot for only needing a single decal...what do you do with the other 14 of them. haha.

 

[Pat]

Thanks for the guides and photos, Pat. I too would like to work on the bike myself. I've done a little of it on another bike but nothing really too deep and technical (adjust valves, clean carb). I see you didn't change the Ninja's side mirrors, something I'd like to do as they really jut out and restrict the ability to filter through unmoving traffic (the normal in this country). I was just wondering if the smaller N300 side mirrors (which I've read here are a direct replacement) provide a good rear view of traffic. Also would you or anyone know if aftermarket spools for the N300 fit the N400 directly? (I'd hate to have to ground them down as I only have files, not a grinding wheel or Dremel tool.) They're the kind most available here in the Philippines.

I think I've got the perfect solution for you, although you may not like the price tag. I replaced the huge stock mirrors with some sexy Rizoma Tomok mirrors and the Kawasaki specific adapter. This looks great on the bike and definitely reduces the mirror profile, but mirrors did not extend far enough to see directly behind me (or my wife, who is getting her license next week, passed her riding class). Put some SWMotech adapters to extend the mirrors out slightly, which worked quite well. I feel like the end result is a light weight good looking combination that allows for exceptional traffic carving and lane splitting due to the low profile.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rizoma-tomok-mirror
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rizoma-sport-mount-mirror-adapter-kawasaki-ninja-300-zx-6r
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/sw-motech-mirror-wideners-kawasaki-zx-6r-636-zx10r-ninja-300

 

[Pat]

Did you have to buy the minimum of 15 decals the site requires? $45 seems like a lot for only needing a single decal...what do you do with the other 14 of them. haha.

My order was $20 with tax and shipping. You are getting the basic stripe set so should be pretty cheap. $45 sounds like you selected a premium option. If you call them they might be able to work something out with you for an order below their minimum; I just paid for the 15 decals since $20 wasn't too big of a deal.

 

[Pat]

I'm a fan because they dont show your shoulders! Yes you have to turn your head more tho. Also i think they look better than the bug antennae OEM mirrors, but that's personal preference.
To be fair the mirrors on the N400 are some of the better ones I've had on a bike. They are blur free (vibration) and are wide enough to give you a reasonable view.
I've ordered some bar end mirrors off wish.com.

Love the bar end mirrors on my FZ-07 but they make it more difficult to lane split due to the increase in profile. If you want to ride between traffic traditional mirrors are the way to go, see two posts above. Sounds like this is what baykaksyon is looking for.

 

[TwiggLe]

What size screws did you get/use to replace the front reflectors?

 

[Watcher905]

What size screws did you get/use to replace the front reflectors?

Home Depot- M6 x 20

 

[baykaksyon]

I think I've got the perfect solution for you, although you may not like the price tag. I replaced the huge stock mirrors with some sexy Rizoma Tomok mirrors and the Kawasaki specific adapter. This looks great on the bike and definitely reduces the mirror profile, but mirrors did not extend far enough to see directly behind me (or my wife, who is getting her license next week, passed her riding class). Put some SWMotech adapters to extend the mirrors out slightly, which worked quite well. I feel like the end result is a light weight good looking combination that allows for exceptional traffic carving and lane splitting due to the low profile.

Those Rizomas do look nice and, like all Rizoma accessories, are quite pricey. Will have to cut down on my food consumption to save up for them :3tens: